Last week saw the opening of two exciting jewellery exhibitions simultaneously in Sydney and Adelaide. Two young Australian jewellers feature in these exhibitions. Their work is very different, both visually and conceptually. Jessamy pollock’s solo exhibition in Sydney, Building Jewellery, draws inspiration from Australian architecture and the built environment. She also uses aluminium and precious metals to create patterns found in nature.
Adelaide Lisa Furno, a jeweller from scrap and found objects, is the sole curator of a new jewellery exhibition featuring works by New Zealand artists. It called out bursts of unhinge imagination. These two young jewellers represent a shift in generational art that is mark by increasing verna cularization of Australian visual arts, including jewellery.
Verna cularization is a way to reject cliched Australian, such as references to the bush or the beach. It also means more direct engagement in urban and suburban life: art and design that reflect our daily lives and domestic concerns. Although the approaches and media choices of the young artists are very different, both artistic works reflect this common sensibility.
Wearable Sculpture Jewellery
Pollock’s wearable sculptures are a reflection of high levels planning, control, attention to detail, and careful attention to form. Pollock creates refined pieces that fit comfortably in the realm of fine art.
Lisa Furno, on the other hand, is bowerbird-like and uses trash and throwaway materials for tongue-in-cheek ironic work. She melts down plastics and incorporates other detritus. Furno transforms these seemingly unprepossessing materials into colorful and extravagant wearable collages, which seem to transcend the divide between fine art and popular culture.
Jessamy’s Pollock’s art, on the other hand, deliberately refers to naturally occurring patterns and repetitions such as the honeycomb as well as certain geometric designs in Australian architecture. I first began to look at Federation Square as an aesthetic inspiration a few years ago. This led me to read essays on the design philosophy behind buildings.
She was inspire to do this by Donald Bates’ work on the Federation Square redesign. He has written the following about the underlying philosophy behind his LAB Architecture Studio practice.
Space’s Social Dimension Lies Jewellery
As architects, we believe that space’s social dimension lies in its ability for materialization and conceptualization through new and more speculative spatial arrangements. Jessamy’s jewellery practice has been profoundly influence by the architectural philosophy of Bates et al. She explains the principles that underpin her practice in her own words. The first is this:
Everything must serve two purposes. In a wider sense, this could mean that the building serves two purposes. It must be wearable, but it also needs to be an object that is not attached to the body. Pollock’s wearable sculptures are also a testimony to Australian urbanity and sub urbanity, as well as to the interconnected world in our present lives.
Traditional jewellery images conjure up powerful and well-bejewelled people. This is in stark contrast to the Australian egalitarian self-image.
Notion That Australians
Although the notion that Australians are averse to power, prestige, or status is ludicrous, we have overcome our collective cultural fear to see the value of the vernacular both in life and art. This is reflected in our growing tastes in visual arts, as well as bodily adornment.
Many of Pollock’s clever and captivating brooches, as well as other wearable art, are miniature models of Melbourne’s Federation Square’s unique, eccentric, and crazy-shaped architecture. Each brooch takes its own shape depending on the angle from which it is viewed.
This requires conceptual prowess, but Pollock’s entire body of work demonstrates a high degree of technical mastery. The design elements that underpin these wearable sculptures tap into a unique Australian social and architectural zeitgeist poker pelangi.
John Macarthur, The Architect Jewellery
It is important to think about the merits of Federation Square. Jessamy pollock is also involved in the game of culture. She designs and makes exquisite maquette brooches featuring Federation Square and earrings. She created a whole suite of wearable art in her Sydney exhibition Building Jewellery. This is a way to see Australian culture from a different perspective. Each work is legible as bodily ornamentation.
Lisa Furno’s mode of operation is completely different but not less relevant to the place and time in which we live. Furno’s genius lies in her ability to turn plastic, mostly plastic, into wearable items. Kenneth Slessor, an Australian poet, said it in a different context, You find these ugly, but I find them beautiful.